Specialty Coffee: A Chef’s Perspective on Flavour, Craft, and Tradition

Coffee is more than a morning ritual—it’s a world of terroir, craftsmanship, and unexpected flavour. I had the privilege of experiencing this firsthand as a judge at the Semana Internacional do Café in Minas Gerais, Brazil—one of the world’s most significant specialty coffee events. Tasting and evaluating these exceptional brews made me see coffee in an entirely new light.

A Journey into Specialty Coffee

My journey into coffee didn’t start in Brazil—it began years earlier, in Kyiv, Ukraine. Many who follow my work know that my partner, Maria, is from Belo Horizonte, Minas Gerais—a region internationally respected for its coffee. Her family cultivates beans in Mantiqueira de Minas, one of the most renowned producing areas in Brazil.

When we lived in Kyiv, Maria launched a trading company to bring her family's coffee to the world. That’s when I truly stepped into the world of specialty coffee. As an Italian chef, I thought I understood coffee. But attending my first cupping session with Maria and Manina Penziy, a respected Q Grader and barista, changed everything.

A Q Grader is, in essence, a coffee sommelier—certified to evaluate bean quality. As I took my first sip, I exclaimed: “This isn’t coffee; it’s tea!” Manina gently guided me through the flavour notes and balance. 

That moment opened my eyes. Coffee wasn’t just bold and bitter but it could be floral, citrusy, delicate. That moment shaped my palate forever.

From Family Farms to the Global Stage

In 2022, I finally had the opportunity to visit Brazil and immerse myself in the heart of its coffee culture. Minas Gerais is not only a paradise for coffee but also one of the top culinary destinations in the country.

There, I met Gabriela Mendonça—Maria’s cousin—who runs Café das Amoras with her mother, Maria Silvia Mendonça. Silvia, a celebrated coffee producer in Mantiqueira de Minas, has won numerous awards for her exceptional beans.

On her farm, Silvia takes a deeply personal approach to coffee cultivation. She names her "coffee roads"—the sections of her plantation—after beloved family members. One of the coffees I tasted, Café do João, was named after her grandson.

João, despite being a child, has been drinking coffee for years—something quite common in this region, where coffee is a part of life from an early age.

Brazil produces nearly 40% of the world’s coffee. But here’s something fewer people know:Roughly half of that production comes from one region—Minas Gerais. It’s a land of altitude, tradition, and an almost spiritual relationship with coffee. 

Gabriela invited me to attend the Semana Internacional do Café—not just as a guest, but as a judge for a specialty coffee competition. It was an incredible honor and an eye-opening experience. I tasted some of the most exquisite coffees imaginable, each with complex flavor notes I had never associated with coffee before.

Semana Internacional do Café 2022 - Belo Horizonte, Brazil

By the end of the day, I had likely consumed more caffeine than ever before, but it was absolutely worth it. As a chef, stepping into this world gave me a new appreciation for coffee not just as a beverage, but as an ingredient shaped by place, people, and purpose.

Minas Gerais isn’t just a region.It’s a coffee culture—and for anyone who loves flavor, precision, and ritual, it’s a place worth knowing. You don’t just drink coffee there—you grow up with it, live alongside it, and pass it down through generations.

What makes a coffee "specialty"

Silvia and Gabriela taught me that not all coffee is created equal. There are two main coffee species: Arabica and Robusta. Arabica is prized for its superior quality and grows at higher altitudes, developing more complex flavors. Robusta, on the other hand, is grown at lower altitudes, contains more caffeine, and has a stronger, more bitter profile.

Specialty coffee isn’t just about the type of bean—it’s about the care taken at every stage of production. Q Graders evaluate coffee through strict criteria, first inspecting the green beans for defects, then roasting and cupping them to assess aroma, flavor, and overall balance. Coffee scoring above 80 points on a 100-point scale is classified as specialty coffee. Some of the finest coffees, like those from Silvia’s farm, can reach 98 points, while commercial-grade coffee typically scores much lower.

The human Touch Behind Every Bean

One of the most fascinating lessons I learned is that great coffee isn’t just about the plant—it’s about the people behind it. On Silvia’s farm, coffee is harvested by hand, mainly by women, who meticulously pick only the ripest cherries. In contrast, large commercial farms often use machines that harvest everything at once, leading to a mix of ripe and unripe beans that affect quality.

Once picked, the coffee cherries are carefully dried on suspended beds, preventing unwanted fermentation and ensuring uniform drying. This level of attention to detail continues through every stage—milling, sorting, roasting, and ultimately, brewing.

Every step influences the final cup, making specialty coffee a true labor of love.

Bringing Speciality Coffee into Culinary World

As I’ve come to understand the depth and diversity of specialty coffee, it has gradually found its place in my kitchen—not just as a drink, but as a culinary element in its own right.

Working with carefully selected beans, each with distinct origins and tasting notes, has opened a new creative dimension. Much like wine or chocolate, coffee can be light and floral, deep and nutty, or bright and citrusy—giving me the freedom to pair specific coffees with specific ingredients, elevating both through thoughtful contrast or harmony.

It’s no longer just about adding “coffee flavor.” It’s about understanding the bean’s character, roast level, and terroir—and using that to compose a dish with intention.

One example: a dessert inspired by the classic Irish Coffee.

This piece brings together caramel, whiskey, and specialty coffee, layered into a refined and elegant bite. The caramel glaze adds warmth and sheen; the whiskey is subtly present, adding complexity; and the coffee—carefully chosen for its balance—ties the experience together with aromatic richness. Finished with delicate garnishes and a golden touch, it reflects everything I love about working with exceptional ingredients: precision, restraint, and beauty.

For me, specialty coffee is defined by care, quality, and deep respect for the ingredient. From the farm to the cup—and now, onto my plates—it has become a source of inspiration, proving that something so familiar can be reimagined into a culinary art form.

Have You Experienced Specialty Coffee Beyond the Cup?

Many are surprised to learn that coffee—like wine—has a specialty category. Defined by origin, elevation, and precision at every stage, these beans offer an aromatic complexity that extends far beyond the morning ritual.

In my work as a private chef, I’ve found that specialty coffee can elevate both sweet and savory compositions when approached with intention.

Have you ever tasted a coffee that made you pause?Or experienced it as part of a dish—not just a beverage?

I invite you to reflect, share, or reach out. After all, the finest culinary moments often begin with curiosity.

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